Showing posts with label Performance. Show all posts
Showing posts with label Performance. Show all posts

03/09/2011 - VW Racing Cold Air Intake + 42DD Oil Catch Can Install

There is a large debate as to whether or not oil catch cans are worth the money or not. Personally, I think an oil catch can is very beneficial, especially for direct injection engines like on the Golf GTI and Golf R.

First, let's go over what is currently happening in your engine without a catch can installed. All internal combustion engines that run off gasoline are 4 stroke engines. This means that the piston has to go up and down a total of 4 times to complete a cycle. The piston first goes down with the intake valves open creating a vacuum. This draws in the cool dense air for combustion. At the same time, fuel is injected into the cylinder. The intake valves close and then the piston rises up towards the top of the cylinder. This compression creates an immense build-up of pressure in the cylinder. The only things containing this high pressure are the cylinder itself, the piston and the piston rings that seat against the walls of the cylinder. The intake and exhaust valves are obviously closed as well. The pressure is so high that a very small amount of the air escapes around the piston and piston rings into the crankcase. This is called "blow-by". The amount of blow-by increases as the engine RPMs rise. Also, an engine with more cylinders will have more blow-by. Obviously not all of the air escapes or else combustion wouldn't take place. A diagram of the 4-stroke cycle can be seen below. Only the first 2 steps are relevant in regards to the catch can.




Inside the crankcase, you have the crank which is turning in the oil pan which is full of oil. This keeps it properly lubricated. The positive crankcase ventilation (PCV) is necessary to ensure there isn't a build up of pressure in the crankcase. This would cause the crankcase to possibly crack under the pressure and create a huge mess of oil on the street. So the PCV system removes the pressure from the crankcase and reverts it back through the intake tract via crank case vents. This pressure isn't made up of 100% air. It will also contain a very small amount of oil as well since there is so much in the oil pan at a high temperature. This air and oil mixture is then entered somewhere after the intake system, passes through the intercooler (if you car is turbo or supercharged) and then re-enters the combustion chamber (cylinder) through your intake valves to be re-burned. The oil will actually coat everything on its way back to the combustion chamber. It will develop in the intercooler, boost hoses, intake manifold and intake valves. Just on the other side of these valves is where the combustion is taking place where the temperatures are extremely high. This is what actually causes the oil to solidify on the valves. With the oil passing through the intercooler, it can actually coat the cooling fins which will hinder the intercooler's ability to cool the air therefore lowering the efficiency.

The caking on intake valves is only a problem with direct injection engines. For all other engines that use port injection, the gas is introduced before the combustion chamber which means it flows over the intake valves and enter the combustion chamber premixed with the air. This action of the fuel flowing over the intake valves actually cleans the valves from any oil that make already be on there. The oil never has the chance to cake on the valves in port injection engines.

Having oil caked onto your intake valves can cause the following symptoms:
  • Knocking
  • Pre-ignition
  • Loss in power
  • Loss in fuel economy

Here is an image of carbon build-up on valves. Yes, it's nasty...




An oil catch can does just that. It catches or prevents the oil from re-entering the intake tract. A catch can is placed right after the PCV and before the intercooler. This means that a more pure (sometimes 100% pure) air mixture will go through the intercooler and intake valves. A more pure air mixture entering the intake valves means no caking and none of the symptoms listed above. Oil catch cans are highly beneficial in race applications and if you track your car. However, for my purposes, it was more of a preventative measure as I wanted the extra gunk to be collected and eventually emptied out instead of having it recirculate.

I decided to buy a 42 Draft Design catch can. Reason for this was because a forum member I had met, Chris, had purchased this catch can from Greg, who owns and runs Carformance and who is also the Australian distributor for 42 Draft Design products. Chris, who has a Golf R himself, said he would be the guinea pig and was trying to get a mounting bracket set up which could be used and sold with the catch can together, thus eliminating any need for custom work. After collaborating with Greg for a few months, the new mount was ready and I had told Greg that I would like to be one of the first to purchase it once the bracket was complete. After some initial delays, a few weeks later I had received the catch can.



42 Draft Design oil catch cans. I opted for left one with the billet top and black wrinkle finish on the can.


Prior to receiving the oil catch can, I had also ordered a cold air intake. Basically, a cold air intake is a system used to bring down the temperature of the air going into a car for the purpose of increasing the power of an internal-combustion engine. For a turbo car like the Golf R, it's an inexpensive way to increase performance. All cold air intakes operate on the principal of increasing the amount of oxygen available for combustion with fuel. Since cooler air has more density for a given volume, cold air intakes generally work by providing cooler air from outside the hot engine bay. Better designed intakes use heat shields to isolate the air filter from the rest of the engine compartment, providing cooler air from the front or side of the engine bay. VW Racing had just released their new cold air intake system for the MK6 Golf GTI's and Golf R's and I decided to purchase it. I contacted Ian from Rennenhaus as he is the official distributor for VW Racing parts, and within a few weeks I had the intake ready to install.



VW Racing cold air intake offering for the MK5 GTI, MK6 GTI and MK6 Golf R.


I contacted Chris to see if we could do a DIY with catch can seeing as how he was the one who fabricated the mount, he'd have a better idea on how to install it. I also asked if we could install the intake at the same time and he was fine with it. So I arrived at 9:30am in the morning at his place and we got stuck in. We started with the intake. Ripping off the OEM engine cover was a right pain in the ass, but luckily we didn't break anything.



Engine cover off. Intake and catch can ready to be installed.


After a few hours, we ended up installing the intake. Not as straight forward as we thought it would be and after a test drive, not as loud inside the cabin compared to when I had my Forge TWINtake on my Jetta. However, the "whoosh" sound is more apparent under load. There were some custom modifications we had to do to make it fit the Golf R. The intake itself is simple plug and play. However it seems like that this intake caters for both the K03 and K04 turbos. Those with a K03 turbo (i.e Golf GTI) should be fine but with K04 turbo, the diverter valve (DV) is at the front (compared to down towards the bottom of the car on a GTI) and the pipe from the DV runs up the side and into a bung on the hose as seen in the picture below. You have to create a hole on the silicone pipe to accomodate for the DV bung. To be honest, VW Racing's method to cut a hole on that silicone pipe is a piece of shit really. They give you a "cutter", which is just a small hollow cylinder and what they want you to do is to line that cylinder inside the silicone tube, put a block of wood inside the tube tube so that the cylinder presses up against the pipe from the inside, place it on a flat surface and smash it using a rubber mallet. Pretty ghetto for an intake which cost as much as it did.



VW Racing instructions on how to fit the DV bung to the silicone pipe. Pretty pathetic to be honest.


Problem with this method you do not know if the cutter is in the right place because essentially what you're doing is taking an estimate and an educated guess as to where the bung "should" go. You'd be basically hitting with the mallet and hoping for the best. Not only that, the block of wood needs to sit on the bit of the pipe which bends. Plus, really, for the DIY'er, who has a small block of wood like that lying around? It really is a bullshit design. So instead, Chris took the disconnected DV tube and then loose fitted the silicone pipe onto the turbo, then got the DV tube and placed it where it would be optimal, traced around the circumference of the DV tubee against the silicone pipe, used a drill and a wood bit to drill into the pipe, cleaned the edges with a small stanley knife and attached the bung applied with some Loctite to make sure it stays in place. Apart from that, no real issues in fitting the intake. If you have a GTI, it should be just a case of taking the engine cover and old intake off and putting this one on. For the Golf R, GTI Pirelli or the GTI Edition 35, you would need to create that hole in the silicone pipe.



A much more accurate way of cutting the hole for the DV bung in the silicone pipe : A drill with wood bit and a Stanley knife to clean around the edges. Perfect!



Intake installed. Notice how the DV tube lines up nice and straight connecting to the silicone pipe. 
Would have been near impossible with the method VW Racing provided.


I had also bought two 1 metre long silicone hoses for the oil catch can as theoretically, it should last indefinitely and not have the excess oil eat away at the pipe. However, when Chris was cutting bits off the hose pipe and trying work out how to feed the pipes to the catch can, the problem we ran into was that the actual silicone hose itself wasn't flexible enough and when we ran both hoses together under the air duct of the intake, it came dangerously close to hitting the radiator fan. Since the hoses weren't as flexible, it was hard to place it somewhere which wouldn't make it a problem and away from any moving objects in the engine bay. In the end, we gave up trying to come up with a solution because there really wasn't one. But I still needed a way to drive and get home, so Chris offered to give me his hoses he had on his Golf R, which were just normal heater hoses you can get from Super Cheap Auto. And because the hoses I bought were of no use anymore (not to me anyway), I said he could hang onto them so he could experiment with them for whatever. Heater hoses are cost effective, but they aren't really designed for oil and if unattended for a a few years, it can corrode and eat away at the hose and you will end up having crap all over your engine bay. It should last at least a year for my application and for now it will do the job fine. Eventually, I will be going to Enzed real soon to buy proper 19mm hydraulic hoses, which should theoretically last forever.



Oil catch can installed. Notice the route of the right heater hose to the oil catch can.
This is not the most optimal place to route a heater hose to the catch can but it will work as a temporary measure.
Ideally, I would like to have both pipes running in the same direction as the hose on the left and keep them together with a zip tie.


All in all, it was a successful day out and massive thanks to Chris for helping me with the DIY. If it wasn't for him, I wouldn't have been able to get through installing this as quick as we did and I would also be stuck with those silicone hoses.


If you would like to purchase these items as well as many other mods which may be available for your Golf GTI or Golf R, please visit :

Rennenhaus
http://www.rennenhaus.com.au

Carformance
http://www.carformance.com.au

26/04/2011 - ECU Reflash Tune

Chip tuning refers to changing or modifying a chip in a car's (or other vehicle's) electronic control unit (ECU) to achieve better performance, whether it be more power, cleaner emissions, or better fuel economy. This was done with early engine computers in the 1980s and 1990s. Today, the term "chip tuning" can be misleading as people will often use it to describe ECU tuning that does not involve physically swapping the chip. Modern ECUs can be tuned by simply updating their software through a standard interface, such as an OBDII port. This procedure is commonly referred to as engine or ECU tuning. ECUs are a relatively recent addition to the car, having first appeared in the late 1970s.

As technology advanced, so did the electronics that go into the cars. The ECU in a modern car together with advanced engine technology makes it possible to control many different aspects of the engine's operation, such as spark timing and fuel injection. The ECU may also control electronic throttle control (drive-by-wire), valve timing, boost control (in turbocharged engines) and much more. Performance gains are realised by adjusting the ignition timing advance. Higher timing may result in higher performance. However, to cope with advanced timing, one must run high-octane gasoline to avoid pre-ignition detonation or pinging. Manufacturers design for a specific timing and this may limit performance accordingly. These days, it's just a simple matter of plugging in a cable to the car's OBDII port, plug the other end to the USB slot on the laptop and uploading the new software to the car. Gone are the days where the actual ECU computer needs to be ripped out and replaced with a physical chip to gain the hidden power. This is called "bench tuning".



Bench tuning is where they can apply the tune by taking out the ECU from the car without physically having the car present. 


You may ask, if a simple ECU tune can give you up to 20kw at the wheels, why didn't they just release the car with its full potential to begin with. Well, I'm sure there are many reasons behind this but when cars get the go ahead to be put into production, it must meet certain stringent criteria before it is sold to the general public. For example, it must comply with emissions laws. This was one of the reasons why the 3.2L V6 engine from the MK5 R32 didn't carry over to the MK6 Golf R as it didn't meet Euro V emission laws. 

Turbo cars benefit the most from a reflash tune and it's such a great bang-for-your-buck mod. For N/A cars, there are still benefits to be had but compared to a turbo, it's minimal. With the Golf R (and for most cars in the VAG range), there are a few tuning companies who can provide a reflash tune software and apply it to your car to unlock the extra power hidden away, which is begging to be released. Some of these tuners are :


As you can see, there are quite a few tuners who are all able to load a reflash tune to get to that extra power. Some of these companies also have reflash tunes to accomodate for what sort of supporting mods you have on the car. For example, APR have "stages" in their ECU tunes. A Stage I reflash is your basic software reflash which is done to a stock car. With just a reflash it will give you anywhere between 10-20kw at the wheels. A Stage II ECU reflash would mean you have a dump pipe or turboback fitted to your car, and a Stage II+ ECU reflash means you would have a dump pipe/turboback and also a fuel pump. And of course, with the addition of an intake and intercooler will increase the power output. Be advised though that the "stages" in ECU reflash tunes would be slightly vary from tuner to tuner. But for a basic Stage I tune, it wouldn't really matter which tuner you went to as the power output would be more or less the same.



A MK5 Golf GTI being flash tuned with REVO software.


I wasn't looking for a tune initially as I wanted to finish off all the suspension components first. However, after that drive with Pierre in his S3 on the dyno day, the need for more power was on the back of my mind. And I justified it to myself that it was just unlocking what the factory sealed off. On my old Jetta, I had an APR Stage I ECU reflash tune and it was great. Very torquey down low in the rev range and quite a nice mid range pull at wide open throttle (WOT). The power would taper off somewhat when it approached redline but that was okay because I'd be doing mainly city driving and you want the power to be in the lower to mid rev range as that is where you will be doing most of your driving. However, from the tuners listed above, this was comparatively the most expensive tune. And not only that, the APR dealer here was a good 1 hour away from my house. I looked for other options and I decided to settle for GIAC. The GIAC distributors here are Arthur and the guys at Exoticars and this is the same tune Pierre had on his S3. I know that he and a few others I know all take their cars to Arthur and have nothing but praise about both him and his work. Not only that, they are approximately 15 minutes away from my house, which was a bonus for me.

Now mind you, the day I got my ECU reflashed, the roads were wet as it was alternating from drizzle to pouring down with rain, thus the roads were slippery. However, Arthur tested the car to make sure everything was okay and I have to say, this is how the Golf R should have been like from factory. There was so much more pull right throughout the rev range, even in normal D mode. Sports mode and manual mode were even better. I have no doubt that on dry roads it would be even more fun.



The GIAC flash loader which is used to apply the GIAC ECU reflash software.
One end plugs into the OBDII port and the other end is connected to a laptop to upload the software.


Comparing my old APR tune on the Jetta to the GIAC tune I have on the Golf R, I can say that the APR had more low down and mid range, whereas the GIAC tune seemed to have more midrange pull and top end power delivery. The APR felt more urgent than the GIAC tune but it's really not fair to compare the two cars as the Jetta has a K03 turbo and the Golf R has the K04 turbo. The K03 being a smaller turbo comes on boost quite early in comparison. Regardless, the GIAC feels like it pulls harder and faster when boost comes on tap, especially in the midrange. Although I didn't redline, I can safely say that it would pull right throughout the rev range.

Stage I tune is always debateable in that no one can say one is better than the other. In actuality, any Stage I tune will feel roughly the same. I still remember I had a huge smile on my face after I got my Jetta flashed with APR software. It was the same deal with the GIAC flash on my Golf R. I'm very happy with it. Whichever Stage I option you go for, it's bound to leave you grinning from ear to ear.

Power is sorted...for now. I know I'm going to want more later on but for now, it's enough to keep me happy. Please visit any one of the links provided above to see which tune is compatible with your car's ECU if you're wanting to unlock the restricted power.


If you are in NSW and would like to reflash your car's ECU with GIAC software, please visit : 

Exoticars

16/04/2011 - Dyno Day

A dynamometer or "dyno" for short, is a device for measuring force, moment of force (torque), or power. For example, the power produced by an engine, motor or other rotating prime mover can be calculated by simultaneously measuring torque and rotational speed (RPM). A rolling dyno gives a truer indication of the car's actual power output rather than the power figure at the engine, which is what most car brochures and reviews all quote. For example, the Golf R is quoted to have 188kw. It's actually meant to be 199kw but because Australia is considered an "extreme climate" country, they had to de-tune the car from factory to cope with the harsh conditions Australia has to offer (which is a load of bullshit to me as Sydney never ever gets that hot and the only place which is extreme is where they wouldn't really buy a Golf R to begin with, i.e Northern Territory / Alice Springs / Darwin). But I digress. The power output is quoted to be 188kw. This is a power figure quoted at the engine.

Before I did any power mods, I've always wanted to get a baseline power figure readout as to what my car was making at the wheels with no mods. Unfortunately, this was something I didn't do with my old Jetta. I had a power figure of what it made with an ECU reflash tune and an intake, but I didn't have a base to compare it with. The best alternative was for me to compare it to someone who ran their stock MK5 Golf GTI on the dyno and compare my tuned figures to their stock ones. It won't be entirely accurate as there are many variables to consider such as fuel type, whether it was done on the same dyno, same day, ambient temperature, tyre pressure, etc etc. So before I embark on power mods, I thought that it would be a good idea to see how much power my Golf R was punching out from the factory. At this point, it had already racked up just a little over 7000kms.

Dyno days are great because you get to meet new faces as well as familiar ones, chat about almost anything not just cars and it can be a really enjoyable day out. The dyno day was organised by Pierre and hosted by Todd and the guys at Mainline Automotive Equipment who build and sell dynamometers. Mother nature wasn't kind to us that day unfortunately as it was raining but at least it didn't pour continuously. There would be short bursts of heavy rain followed by light drizzle followed by no rain and this pattern continued throughout day.



Pierre's Audi 8P S3 pre facelift. Currently putting out close to 220kw at the wheels.



Audi S3's were out in force on the day.



This one put out 179kw at the wheels with just a simple ECU reflash tune. Was 160kw at the wheels when stock.



Sef's Audi 8P A3 sportback and Derek's Audi 8P S3 sportback.



The Golf R's are very much the new kids on the block...



BBS CH wheels are becoming quite common.



MKV and MKIV R32. I still prefer the MKIV. Rawer...



Ray's MKIII Golf GL. Eloquently named "shitbox" and with number plates to match.
Caused nothing but a lot of problems and headaches for Ray but it just has so much character. I love this thing! A beater, and proud of it!


When it was my turn to get on the dyno, I gave Todd (owner of Mainline) my keys and he set it up to take on three runs in my car. Initially, I was aiming for anything above 150kw at all four wheels. It achieved that and more. From its three runs, its last one made : 

Power : 160.1kw @ 106KPH
dTorque : 290.6N.M @ 54KPH

It was the most powerful stock Golf R on the day. Pretty happy taking out most powerful stock Golf R! 

Afterwards, Pierre gave me a shotgun ride in his S3 and wow, his car pulls hard! I experienced the potential that can be had from my car if I had the same mods on my Golf R as his S3. The Audi S3 and Golf R have the same EA113 engine with the same K04 turbo, so modifying it with similar or the same parts as to what Pierre has should get me close to what his S3 is currently putting out at the wheels. 

Here is my dyno sheet from the day.



Very nice curve for a stock Golf R. Torque is almost at 300Nm and the A/F ratio is nice and consistent. Perfect base to begin power mods.


All in all, it was a great day out. Was great meeting and chatting with some new people and always great seeing the regulars. The BBQ was awesome, especially the lamb souvlaki!


If you would like to see what sort of power your car is making and would like a dyno readout, please contact : 

Mainline Automotive Equipment